Enugula Veeraswamys Pilgrimage Route 1830–1831 From Madras to Kasi and Back

Enugula Veeraswamy’s Pilgrimage Route (1830–1831): From Madras to Kasi and Back

Introduction

Imagine setting out on a journey of thousands of kilometers without trains, buses, Google Maps, or even proper highways. That’s exactly what Enugula Veeraswamy, a pioneering Telugu traveler, did nearly two centuries ago. Between May 1830 and September 1831, he walked, rode in palanquins, and followed ancient routes, recording his Kasi Yatra Charitra (Story of the Kasi Pilgrimage).

This wasn’t just a spiritual trip—it was a geographical and cultural documentation of India in the early 19th century. His path, stretching from Madras (Chennai) to Kasi (Varanasi) and back along the eastern coast, reveals how pilgrimage trails became the backbone of modern highways.

In this article, we’ll break down his journey step by step, connect it with present-day routes, and answer the fascinating question: how did people explore and navigate such long routes without modern technology?

Veeraswamy and the Kasi Yatra Charitra

Enugula Veeraswamy was no ordinary pilgrim—he was a Telugu scholar and writer. His travelogue, Kasi Yatra Charitra, written in a diary-like style, captured details about temples, landscapes, social customs, and people. It remains one of the earliest documented travel accounts in South Indian literature.

For him, the Kasi Yatra wasn’t just about personal salvation. It was also a mission to record experiences for others, much like how today’s travelers blog or vlog about their adventures.

Why the Kasi Pilgrimage Mattered in the 1800s

During the 19th century, Kasi (Varanasi) was considered the ultimate destination for Hindus. A pilgrimage there was believed to ensure moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death).

But reaching Kasi wasn’t easy. The journey meant passing through forests, rivers, and kingdoms. Unlike today’s smooth highways, roads were rough trails. Yet, faith gave strength, and people believed that enduring hardship made the spiritual reward even greater.

The Starting Point: Madras (Chennai)

Veeraswamy began his journey from Madras, then an important British port city. It was a melting pot of cultures, trade, and religion. From here, he set northward on foot and in palanquins—a slow but steady way of traveling.

Key Stops on the Outbound Journey

His outbound journey can be divided into three major phases:

1. Southern spiritual centers (Tirupati, Kadapa, Ahobilam)
2. Telangana and Central India (Hyderabad, Nagpur, Jabalpur)
3. Northern heartland (Reema, Mirzapur, Prayag, Kasi)

Tirupati: Gateway to the Divine

No journey from South India was complete without visiting Lord Venkateswara’s temple in Tirupati. Even today, it is one of the busiest pilgrimage sites in the world. For Veeraswamy, Tirupati was the first milestone of devotion before pushing into rugged territories.

Through Andhra and Telangana (Kadapa, Ahobilam, Hyderabad)

1. Kadapa (Cuddapah): Known for its fort and ancient temples.
2. Ahobilam: A sacred site of Lord Narasimha, tucked deep in the Nallamala hills.
3. Hyderabad: Then ruled by the Nizam, a hub of Indo-Persian culture, trade, and history.

This part of the journey mixed spiritual visits with encounters in princely states, showing how religion and politics interwove.

Across Central India (Nagpur, Jabalpur, Reema)

Crossing into Central India meant dense forests, rivers, and tribal lands.

1. Nagpur: A rising Maratha capital with bustling trade.
2. Jabalpur: Famous for the marble rocks of Narmada, a natural wonder.
3. Reema: A less-known but culturally rich waypoint.

These stops highlight how pilgrims often followed ancient trade routes, ensuring food and shelter were available.

Arrival at Prayag and Kasi (Varanasi)

Finally, after months of travel, Veeraswamy reached Prayag (Allahabad), where the Ganga and Yamuna meet, and then Kasi (Varanasi)—the spiritual heart of India.

For him, entering Kasi was not just a destination—it was the culmination of devotion and perseverance. His writings describe the ghats, rituals, scholars, and pilgrims with awe.

The Return Route: A Coastal Odyssey

Instead of retracing his steps, Veeraswamy chose a different route back—through the eastern coastal plains. This made the journey diverse, covering Bengal, Odisha, and Andhra’s coast before reaching Madras.

Calcutta to Puri: Eastern India’s Sacred Belt

1. Calcutta (Kolkata): The British capital of India at the time, buzzing with colonial activity.
2. Cuttack: A historic trade and political hub of Odisha.
3. Puri (Jagannath Temple): One of the Char Dham pilgrimage sites, where the deities of Jagannath, Balabhadra, and Subhadra are worshipped.

Visiting Puri was like adding another spiritual jewel to his pilgrimage crown.

Andhra’s Coastal Shrines (Vizianagaram, Simhachalam, Rajahmundry)

This leg of the journey brought him back into Andhra, where coastal temples dotted the route:

1. Simhachalam: Famous for Lord Varaha Lakshmi Narasimha.
2. Rajahmundry: On the banks of the Godavari, a center of Telugu culture.
3. Ryali, Machilipatnam, Nellore: Each with unique shrines and bustling coastal trade.

Final Leg Back to Madras

From Naidupet, Sullurpet, and Ponneri, Veeraswamy entered familiar Tamil land. Finally, on 3 September 1831, he returned to Madras, completing his 15-month odyssey.

How He Navigated Without Technology

So how did he manage such a journey without maps, GPS, or trains?

1. Oral Guidance: Villagers and fellow pilgrims guided him. Word of mouth was the GPS of those days.
2. Pilgrim Trails: Established paths existed for centuries, much like camel routes in deserts.
3. Rivers and Temples as Landmarks: Natural features and temples acted like “signboards.”
4. Community Support: Hospitality was a cultural duty—pilgrims were often fed and sheltered by locals.

It was like walking on a pathway made of faith and shared human kindness.

Alignment with Modern Highways

Interestingly, his route mirrors today’s national highways:

1. Outbound: Tirupati → Hyderabad → Nagpur → Jabalpur → Prayag → Kasi parallels NH 44, NH 7, NH 30.
2. Return: Calcutta → Puri → Vizianagaram → Nellore → Madras aligns with the East Coast Road (ECR) and connecting highways.

This shows how ancient pilgrimage and trade routes evolved into today’s transport arteries.

Enugula Veeraswamy’s Pilgrimage Route (May 1830 – September 1831)

According to his travelogue, Kasi Yatra Charitra, Veeraswamy undertook a sprawling, 15-month-long journey from Madras (Chennai) to Kasi (Varanasi) and back, richly documenting his experiences 

Key Stops on the Outbound Journey:

1. Tirupati
2. Kadapa (Cuddapah)
3. Ahobilam
4. Hyderabad
5. Vemulawada
6. Nirmal
7. Dhanora
8. Nagpur
9. Jabalpur
10. Reema
11. Mirzapur
12. Prayag (Allahabad)
13. Kasi (Varanasi)  

Return Route Highlights:

1. Patna
2. Gaya
3. Monghyr
4. Rajmahal
5. Krishnanagar
6. Calcutta (Kolkata)
7. Cuttack
8. Puri (Jagannath Temple)
9. Chilka Lake
10. Srikakulam
11. Vizianagaram
12. Simhachalam
13. Rajahmundry
14. Ryali
15. Machilipatnam
16. Bapatla
17. Chinna Ganjam
18. Nellore
19. Gudur
20. Naidupet
21. Sullurpet
22. Ponneri
23. Returned to Madras on 3 September 1831  

Legacy of Veeraswamy’s Journey

Veeraswamy’s Kasi Yatra wasn’t just personal—it was cultural documentation. His writings preserved:

1. Landscapes and temples of 19th-century India
2. Customs, rituals, and hospitality practices
3. The way pilgrimage routes shaped modern infrastructure

Even today, when we drive on NH 44 or ECR, we are unknowingly retracing his footsteps.

Conclusion

Enugula Veeraswamy’s Kasi Yatra was more than a pilgrimage—it was a journey of endurance, faith, and discovery. His path stitched together southern temples, central landscapes, and eastern coasts into one grand arc.

In many ways, his footsteps echo beneath our modern highways, reminding us that every road we travel today was once a pilgrim’s trail.

FAQs

1. Who was Enugula Veeraswamy?
He was a 19th-century Telugu scholar who wrote Kasi Yatra Charitra, documenting his pilgrimage from Madras to Varanasi.

2. How long did Veeraswamy’s Kasi Yatra take?
His journey lasted about 15 months, from May 1830 to September 1831.

3. How did people navigate such long routes in those days?
They followed traditional pilgrimage trails, relied on local guidance, and used temples and rivers as landmarks.

4. Why is Kasi (Varanasi) so important in Hinduism?
It is believed that dying or performing rituals in Kasi grants moksha, liberation from the cycle of rebirth.

5. How does Veeraswamy’s route relate to modern highways?
His path parallels NH 44, NH 7, NH 30, and the East Coast Road, showing how pilgrimage routes shaped India’s highway network.

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Ref: WikiPedia

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